How to REALLY take care of your skin like a pro

In my last post, we covered how to correctly diagnose your skin type, so now you actually know what your skin type really is, not what you think it is we can move forward and discuss how you can take good care of it.

Before we start on how to treat your skin – I need to explain something.

The skin is protected by what is known as the acid mantle – this is like the ozone layer for the skin. If the acid mantle is intact and healthy – the skin functions at its peak – if the acid mantle is damaged or stripped by overzealous cleansing, exfoliating or masking – the oil glands will jump to attention to pump out more oil to protect it.

Oil glands are like the guys we see working on the roads. They hang around chatting until they are needed.

Like us, the oil glands become old as well – so when a woman’s skin goes through menopause or a man’s skin goes through andropause – the oil glands become less active – there is more sitting around than working – which is why we need to apply richer oil-based products to keep the acid mantle (ozone layer) intact. So what this means – is that even if you had an oilier skin in your youth – that does not mean your skin is still oily when you are 40 something and over.

Although I don’t mention it in the treatment recommendations – everyone over the age of 25 should also be using an eye cream no matter what skin type they are.

This is all tried and true information from my 34 years practicing as a beauty therapist, makeup artist, and beauty industry writer.

None of the links are sponsored – but if you would like to buy David Dean’s Skincare – use the code MUA54 to receive a gift with purchase every time you shop with them!

This is a very long blog – so I recommend you just skip to your skin type

Oily skin.

For those who have genuinely oily skin – this can be a difficult skin to manage – but the upside is – that as you age – you will age very well! No wrinkles!

The worst thing you can do to oily skin is to strip it – what this does is it causes the oil glands to start working harder as I said above.

So how should you cleanse oily skin?

Foaming cleansers have their place – but whatever you do – do not use one which says that it treats acne. This will strip your skin.

I personally have found cleansers such as Pelactiv’s Gentle Foaming Cleanser which contains Lactic Acid so it hydrates the skin whilst cleansing to be wonderful for oily skin.

Regular exfoliation – twice weekly with a good exfoliant such as David Deans Bamboo Polish will help lift off any dead skin cells blocking the pores stopping them from working efficiently, plus it will remove blackheads before they become blackheads.

I know oily skinned girls do not like using moisturizers – but just because you have lots of oil, that does not mean you have enough moisture.

Moisture is water – the skin needs hydration to keep itself protected and looking fresh and glowing. If you do not moisturize – your skin will pump out more oil to compensate for the loss of moisture.

Avoid anything which says oil-based – choose a moisturizer which says it is oil-free such as Natio’s Young Oil-free Moisturiser and use it twice daily – as it will improve the skin’s hydration and lessen your oil flow.

Use a deep cleansing face mask at least once or twice a week.

If your chest and back also get oily – apply it to these areas as well. I know it is hard to apply it to your back – ask a friend or family member – it will ensure your skin will not break out. If you have problems in this area – I recommend you cleanse and exfoliate this area as often as you do your face.

Ideally, use a mask with a clay base or charcoal base.

If your skin gets oily throughout the day just use a clean tissue to blot it – there is no need for multiple expensive options – a tissue will do the trick.

Whatever you do – do not powder your skin – this will cause congestion.

Combination skin

Although this skin type is very common – it really is a difficult skin type to treat – only because you are treating two skin types. Although once you get your skin healthy, you will find that treating it will become a breeze.

Cleansing – I recommend in summer you use a gentle foaming cleanser such as Pelactiv’s Gentle Foaming Cleanser as it contains lactic acid so it will not dry out the drier area of your face, but it will thoroughly cleanse your oily Tzone.

In winter I recommend you use a cleanser for dehydrated skin such as Ella Bache’s Moisture Rich Cleansing Milk – as it treats dry to normal skin and slightly oily skin. By not stripping the skin and increasing the hydration – you stop the oil glands from becoming active as I mentioned above.

If your dry area is still dry in summer – use a cleanser for dehydrated skin in summer as well.

Regular exfoliation – twice weekly with a good exfoliant such as David Deans Bamboo Polish will help lift out any dead skin cells blocking the pores stopping them from working efficiently, plus it will remove blackheads before they become blackheads.

If you are prone to congestion and breakouts – use something such as Ella Bache’s Revealing Fruit Enzyme Exfoliant for a deeper exfoliation.

Masking is a bit of a challenge – you need to mask the oiler parts of your face with a deep cleansing mask and the dryer parts with a hydrating mask.

No full-face paper masks for you – unless it is winter and you need a boost of moisture everywhere.

Moisturiser – you can go no oil moisturizer for the center of your face and hydrating moisturizer for the outside – or what I recommend is that you use a hydrating moisturizer such as LOccitane’s Aqua Roetier Ultra Thirst-Quenching Gel or cream  all over and add a hydrating serum or oil such as Natio’s Rosewater Hydration Antioxidant Serum under your moisturizer on the dry bits to give you an added moisture boost.

My skin used to be combination – and I used to always use a beautiful oil all over – even the oiler parts as I wanted to take care of and protect my skin. I used to love Pelactiv’s Precious Oils but I have seen some great skin health stories with girls using Eco Tan’s Glory Oil

If it became oily I would just dab it back with a tissue – you do not need expensive products to dab back the oil – after a while though – except for on the hottest days – my skin would just glow – the oil flow balanced itself out, I just masked the two areas separately – or used a pink clay mask such as Nourished Life’s Life Basics Pure Pink clay mask – it is just pure pink clay ( a lot of so-called Pink clay masks have a pile of stuff in them which you do not want) which is nourishing for the skin, it draws out impurities, but it also heals repairs and firms.

Normal skin

Normal skin needs to ensure that it is constantly hydrated.

Cleanse with a creamy cleanser suited to normal to dry skin in winter and normal to oily skin in summer a perfect cleanser for you is Ella Bache’s Moisture Rich Cleansing Milk

Ideally, use a gentler exfoliant such as Sothy’s Desquacrem or their face scrub twice weekly.

Mask with a hydrating mask – or brightening mask weekly, the sheet masks on the market are great for you.

And ensure that you always use a hydrating facial cream, lighter in summer and richer in winter or one which goes across both seasons such as Jurliques Moisture Plus Rare Rose Gel Cream – with a treatment oil such as Eco Tan’s Glory Oil.

Dry skin

 Dry skin needs a lot of moisture added to it to ensure it functions at its very best.

Cleanse with Ella Bache’s Rinse of Cleansing milk or their Creamy Rich Cleansing Milk in winter. By not stripping your skin of all oils when you cleanse – you are one step closer to glowing skin.

Exfoliate with Sothy’s Gommage twice weekly or Aesop Purifying Facial Exfoliant Paste as it contains lactic acid and is very hydrating whilst removing dead skin cells.

Always use an oil base such as Eco Tan’s Glory oil with your moisturizer – your skin needs oil as well as moisture.

Use lovely rich skin protective creams such as LOccitane Shea Ultra Rich Comforting Cream.

If super dry after a day out doing sports or days when the wind is harsh – you can pop your dry skin mask on and sleep with it on  – just ensure you have a towel on your pillowcase.

Dehydrated skin

As I said in my last blog post – most often skin is dehydrated due to the overuse of drying skincare products.

The other reason you may have dehydrated skin could be because you work in an airconditioned environment or have an active lifestyle which includes being outdoors all of the time – so you suffer from windburn and too much sun. Or………… you also do not drink enough water.

If it is due to overuse of too many drying products by that I mean foaming cleansers, harsh exfoliants, deep cleansing masks and products such as Retin A or other retinoids or glycolic acid – also look at how to take care of Sensitive skin.

Cleanse – use a cleanser specifically designed for dehydrated skins such as Ella Bache’s Moisture Rich Cleansing Milk

Exfoliation is really important so you do not get a build-up of dead skin cells causing congestion and pimples. David Deans Bamboo Polish is great for this – but follow up straight away with a good hydrating face cream

Use a face cream at least twice daily such as  LOccitane’s Aqua Reotier Ultra Thirst-Quenching Cream Moisturiser.or Natio’s Moisture Boost Day Cream-Gel

I highly recommend a hydrating serum such as Natio’s Rosewater Hydration Antioxidant Serum under it or David Deans Hyaluronic Serum.

If your skin is feeling really dry – I recommend you look at a good skin oil such as Aesop’s Fabulous Face Oil under or over your moisturizer.

If you have had a day outside or a Boosey night out – so you are even more dehydrated than before! Apply your face mask before bed and sleep with it on – remember to put a hand towel on your pillowcase to ensure you do not end up with it all over your pillow.

Acne Skin

 As I said in my last blog post

FOUR PIMPLES ON YOUR FACE DOES NOT MEAN YOU HAVE ACNE! NOT EVEN FIVE OR SIX PIMPLES!

Acne skin needs to be deep cleansed but also needs to be kept hydrated and calm so that it does not flare-up or scar.

Cleanse with a gentle cleanser such as Trilogy’s Balancing Gel Cleanser as it contains products to soothe the skin as well as Willow Bark which exfoliates the skin and kills bacteria.

Exfoliating should NOT be done with a scrub as this causes the bacteria to spread. When you use a scrub you are moving bacteria from one part of your face to another – increasing your skin problem.  Ideally, use something such as Revealing Fruit Enzyme Exfoliant which is a leave-on peel which you just wash off with water and your hands – no rubbing or cross-contamination.

You need to moisturize – I know that freaks you out as you are afraid of creating more oil and inflammation – but you need to keep the moisture up to ensure that your skin heals. I cannot recommend David Deans Clear and Brightening Moisturiser enough – this moisturizer clears and calms even the angriest skin.

Masking – careful when you use a mask – if you have to scrub it off – you will aggravate your skin.

Charcoal masks are great for drawing out impurities – but they tend to dry hard – causing you to have to rub it off. Ideally, you should use something such as  Beauty Pro Detoxifying Foaming Sheet Mask with Activated Charcoal or Sukin Super Greens Detoxifying Sheet Mask – because they are sheet masks –  you apply them and then gently lift the sheet mask off – no skin irritation.

Sensitive Skin and Couperose Skin

As I said in my last blog post – sensitive skin is often brought about by using the incorrect products for your skin type – so here is where you should use the correct products I have recommended for your skin type – but if you have genuinely sensitive skin suffering from Rosacea, Psoriasis or Eczema – or you actually have no idea what your skin type is anymore as you have had issues with it forever – then follow this information.

If your skin is also dehydrated and stripped due to over-zealous skincare use – go to my post on Dehydrated skin.

Couperose skin should be treated the same way as Rosacea, Psoriasis or Eczema skin – it needs to be kept calm and protected.

Broken capillaries should be seen to by a laser specialist who can laser them away – there are plenty of laser clinics who can help with this – but use one which also does anti-aging treatments or leg veins – not one which specialises in hair removal as they are not equipped or trained in this area and the treatment could become a major disappointing expense.

Some beauty therapists also have the facilities – best is to do your research online and speak to your beauty therapist or your doctor.

Cleanse with a suitable cleanser such as Trilogy’s very gentle cleansing cream which calms and balances the skin whilst it cleanses.

I don’t recommend you exfoliate your skin for a few weeks as it could irritate your skin – but you will have to exfoliate at some point so that your skin can renew itself effectively. I would use Sothy’s Gommage twice weekly as it is gentle yet very effective.

Moisturise with David Dean’s Clear and Brightening – I love this product for its soothing calming effect.

Jurlique’s Calendula Cream is a must carry in your bag at all times – you can apply it anywhere your skin feels irritated or red – and it is fantastic for when your Psoriasis or Eczema flares up.

Mask with a sensitive skin mask such as Sothy’s Nutri – Soothing Mask to take the burn out of your skin instantly – this should be used when you need it – daily, weekly or monthly – you can also sleep with your mask on – just ensure you have a towel on your pillow.

Premature Aged Skin

 Prematurely aged skin can bounce back to its youthful glow quickly when treated as mature skin because the oil glands are not working as efficiently anymore.

If your skin has ailments such as eczema or lots of broken capillaries or feels sensitive – treat it as you would sensitive skin till you build up the skin’s health and then treat it as you would mature skin.

Mature skin

 Mature skin is broken down into two phases – pre-menopausal skin and post-menopausal skin for women and pre-andropause skin and post-andropause skin for men.

If you do not know what andropause is – it is men’s menopause – it occurs to men around the age of 60 when there is a major drop in their testosterone levels.

When men go through this phase – they end up with similar skin issues just as a post-menopausal woman does unless they get a lot of exercise to maintain their testosterone levels.

I am 54 years old – and this is the skincare regime I use – my average age is guessed at early 40 something.

Cleanse with a hydrating cream cleanser such as David Deans Moisturising Cleanser

Exfoliation is really important at this stage of life – although using a good facial scrub such as Ella Bache’s The Revealing Fruit Enzyme Exfoliant twice weekly – using a exfoliant facial mask as well works wonders such as Aus Medic Co’s Phyto nutrient Face Mask – which I  then follow with a super hydrating mask such as Peter Thomas Roth’s 24K Gold Mask – your skin will tingle afterward – but 24 hours later – it will glow and look smooth and youthful.

If you are pre-menopause, pre- andropause or prematurely aged – I recommend you use a Vitamin A product at night such as one of The Ordinary’s Retinoids as they have 6 different types to choose from so you can find one which suits your skin.

During the day use a Vitamin C such as David Deans Vitamin C with a good hydrating moisturiser over it such as Trilogy’s Vital Moisturising Cream – which can also be applied at night also over the vitamin A.

If you are post-menopause or andropause – loss of firmness is going to make you look older than an uneven skin tone. I know women who have smooth skin due to fabulous skincare post-menopause – but their faces still look old because of lack of tone.

You can still use the Vitamin A in the evenings – but I would swap this for The Ordinary’s Lactic Acid 5% or 10% because lactic acid not only exfoliates but also stimulates collagen and elastin renewal.

Nothing beats for firming and lifting as David Dean’s Firming Moisturiser apply this day and night – during the daytime I recommend you apply a beautiful oil over the top such as Elemis Superfood Facial oil – apply it after you apply your moisturizer as it will allow the moisturizer to penetrate the skin – and by applying the oil after – it will increase your skin glow.

For pre and post skins – you really need to look at giving your skin a little extra to keep it looking good. There are a plethora of Radio Frequency machines to use at home out there for skins that need a lift. If your skin needs repair – look at an LED light therapy machine.

The best results will come from having regular treatments in the salon – but if you are time poor or money poor – so many of the home treatments work.

Two of my favorites are the Rio Lift Plus – but in so saying – there are cheap copies of this on eBay. Or for light therapy – I use the Light Stim  – stimulating the collagen to reproduce itself and to stimulate the muscles really helps keep your face where it belongs!

Hi! My name is Yvette van Schie, I am a qualified Beauty Therapist and professional makeup artist with 34 years of industry experience. I have worked with some of the best in the business, such as naturopaths and cosmetic surgeons and now besides writing my educational blog posts, I write holistic beauty articles for a multitude of professional industry suppliers.

So click on FOLLOW ME if you want REAL unbiased ‘insider industry’ holistic beauty knowledge and advice! 

I also offer Beautiful Skin Consultations – face to face or by Facetime and Skype

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